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Your Best Bet At Preventing Water Damage In Your Home Is To Stop It Before It Happens. But First, You Must Learn What Causes It. Welcome To Water-Damage.net. This Site Is A Free Information Resource That Will Show You Causes Of Water Damage And What To Do If You Are Affected By It.

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Cold Weather and Frozen Pipes

Author:
Darin "Sid" Cameron

Cold weather is a big problem for home and property owners- especially if you’ve moved and your home is setting empty. Why? PLUMBING!
If your home gets too cold, the water in your pipes can freeze overnight and then burst in the day when it warms back up. This leaves the potential for extensive flooding and water damage to your home. The pipes you need to be most concerned about are those that have the most exposure to the cold -- outdoor hose faucets, swimming pool supply lines, underground sprinkler systems, and plumbing in unheated basements, crawl spaces, attics and garages. Pipes that run against exterior walls are also at risk.
What to do…
When it’s cold outside, you should periodically check all the faucets in your home. If it doesn’t work or water is just a trickle you may have frozen water in your pipes. Attempt to locate the frozen area by looking in the area most likely to freeze- i.e. the coldest. Use a heat lamp, space heater, hair dryer or electrical heat pad to begin to thaw out the pipes. Remember to keep the faucet open as you work. That's because running water will help melt the ice faster. Apply heat until full water pressure is restored, then consider going to your neighborhood hardware store to purchase insulation for the areas of the pipe that froze (to help prevent it from happening again).
DO NOT use any sort of blow torch or open flame to warm the pipes. I can not stress this enough, so let me say it again. DO NOT use an open flame. First off, an open flame is a fire hazard and if you are working in a confined area there is a threat of carbon monoxide poisoning. Every year there is a story in the news of some person burning down their home or suffocating themselves to death while working on frozen pipes.
The second reason not to use an open flame is if it gets too hot you can melt your pipes (especially PVC plastic pipes). Third, too much heat too quickly creates the potential for an explosion. That’s because water expands as it gets hot. A blow torch or other device will cause the water to boil, and boiling water trapped in the middle of a frozen pipe has no place to expand- so it explodes.
The last piece of advice is always the best... If you fail to unthaw the pipe, call a licensed plumber before the pipe breaks.
How to keep it from happening…
- Your home should have inside valves on your outdoor water supply lines. Close them, then open the outside faucet and let the water drain. Leave the outside faucet open all winter.
- Drain and store outside garden hoses.
- If you haven’t already done so, drain the water from your swimming pool and lawn sprinkler system. As mentioned above, insulate plumbing that's most susceptible to freezing. You can find supplies at your local hardware store, Home Depot, or Lowes.
- During severe cold weather, let the faucets drip. Although it's no guarantee, even a trickle of water can help prevent pipes from freezing and an open faucet gives the water someplace to run once it starts to warm up.
- Keep the home temperature set to no lower than 55 degrees Fahrenheit. I know it’s tempting to turn the thermostat down when you leave town for a few weeks or if you have an unsold home that is setting empty, but the higher heat bill is quickly offset by the cost of repairing a pipe and cleaning up water damage.
- Lastly, if you experience flooding or water damage from a broken pipe, be sure to watch the home for mold or mildew. Black mold can be a serious after effect to a flooded home that’s far worse to deal with than the actual water damage.

About The Author

Darin "Sid" Cameron currently works for the STLagent Team of Real Estate Consultants in St Louis, MO. He publishes The St Louis Real Estate Blog on his website at: http://www.stlagent.com.
Mr. Cameron also moderates the St Louis Community Forum Message Board at: http://www.stlagent.com/forum.
© STLagent.com 2005

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Building Waterproofing - Keep Your Structure And Investment Safe From Water Damage
The concept of waterproofing or protecting buildings against the damaging action of water derives from the need to avoid water and humidity related elements that act negatively upon constructions. This negative effect can present itself in several ways, creating health problems, structure deterioration, facility damage and others. Not to mention, that repairing a building damaged by water can be very expensive! Permeability most frequent causes are: porous or flawed material, badly sealed splices, crack existence, building defects and inadequate surface pendant. However, we can find different kinds of humidity: the one that gets in from the outside (because of rain, different kind of water infiltrations, ground humidity or underground water), building's own humidity (permanent or because of the construction) and the one produced gradually by the building (because of its service as well as due to condensation and water leaks). Basic conditions for waterproofing involve the surface's fitness for treatment and its cleanness. Building waterproofing can be done in a surface with/without the presence of water and with/without previous treatment. Building Waterproofing Systems Based on water's origin and effects on buildings and concrete, waterproofing systems have been classified: - Surface waterproofing: done with coating plates, bituminous emulsions, vinyl pastes, resins and sealants. - Integral waterproofing: integrated to the mass of concrete, affecting its permeability. - Hydrophanous waterproofing: integrated to the mixing water or used as curing systems, allow the improvement of concrete's characteristics such as workability, compression resistance, decrease of reinforcement steel corrosion, decrease of...
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